Wow! I am astounded by how quickly time passes: it’s already been a year since the devastating events of the 2017 Harvest. And for all of the characteristics of that growing season, they stand in great contrast to our 2018 harvest, which has been OUTSTANDING!!! This may end up being the largest harvest on record for the North Coast. This extremely long growing season, with moderate temperatures and a few beneficial heat episodes, has pushed the ripening to where it needs to be and led to high-quality fruit, featuring increased flavors and intensity. We have also benefitted from this gargantuan harvest by increasing our production by 33%. Sorry folks, we are now a mega-winery producing 6,000 cases! I hope those that didn’t want us to become a large corporate winery don’t think we’re selling out. Never! That said, the Wine Club selections remain on the small side, with the Grenache, Mourvedre, and ‘Portly’ Petite Sirah clocking in at 50 cases or less for each. “Hand’s on winemaking” is alive and well.
One of the cool things we get to do in the wine business is to experiment and make some ‘special’ wines. Some people make vermouth or a sparkling wine (which we will do someday), but I chose to make a Port-style fortified wine. What prompted me to go this route was my experience with the Diener Ranch Petite Sirah, and how when it still had a little sugar before completing fermentation it really reminded me of vintage Port (existing laws prevent us from putting ‘Port’ on the label). Our first port, and yes, it is all Diener Ranch Petite Sirah, came out in 2015: just 22 cases of 375ml bottles. Well, it was awesome, and our Wine Club and customers thought so too, as we sold out in a few days. It was obvious we hit on something. We bottled another port the following year, and I held back a barrel. I currently have four vintages in the cellar, counting 2018, and have decided to create a ‘solera’ process for our ports. This means we’ll produce a port year-after-year with a portion of most, if not all the vintages going into a blend, as in the case of this first version, V1. The larger percentages are wines that are more current, with less and less of wine from the older vintages. In thirty years, you will have some small percentage of a 30 year old wine being part of that year’s bottling. Each bottling contains fairly high percentages of newer vintages, though there is variation from vintage to vintage, and after many years, the solera evolves much like the wines. It’s kinda geeky, but winemakers think this stuff is fun. The V.1 blend includes 2017 (45%), 2016 (27.5%), and 2015 (27.5%).
The other wines in our November’18 Wine Club include: 2017 Mourvèdre, 2017 Grenache, and 2017 Old Vine Zinfandel. Mourvèdre loves hot weather, as it does very well in the southern France and northern Spain. The Sierra Foothills Calaveras County, provide similar growing conditions with dry soil and warm temps, the conditions needed to properly ripen Mourvèdre. I have been working with the Tanner family for three years and the resulting wines have impressed me with the correct varietal character that is Mourvèdre. Grenache, the most widely planted varietal in the world, is a seductive wine that offers a great deal of complexity, and is not heavy handed in doing so. A bit bigger in structure than Pinot Noir, it still offers the juiciness and complexity of Pinot, though the aromas and flavors are quite different. What mainly attracts me to this grape are the crushed red fruit and Provencal herb components, and the wines are just…pretty! The final wine in our selection is the 2017 Old Vine Zinfandel. A Sonoma Valley vineyard planted in the 1930’s is a field blend of mixed black varietals along with approximately 85% Zin. These wines are always rich and complex and will reward you with a bit of air time by opening the bottle early, or decanting to get the air in to liberate this youthful wine. After being opened for a day it thrilled me with its layers of fruit and structure.
As the holidays approach, we look to gather with friends and family. This is a wonderful opportunity to set aside amplified differences and celebrate what is most important: our connection to one another. What binds us together is what we share in common, and we should cherish these aspects, which have made us appreciate each other for the positive contributions each makes to our lives. As a people we come together over food and drink, so Drink Well, Eat Well and be in good graces with friends and loved ones.
2018 November Wine Club Wines
2017 Sonoma Valley Grenache
Having been in the industry for since 1987, I have the great fortune of establishing relationships with some wonderful people and the vineyards they tend. For our 2017 Grenache I was given the opportunity to source from the Steel Plow Vineyard in Sonoma Valley, an organically farmed vineyard cared for by the guru, Phil Coturri. Very low yields with exceptional care in the right terroir tends to produce excellent fruit, and in 2017 we were not disappointed. Wonderful aromas of crushed red and blue fruit surrounded by a swirl of molasses and a thread of Provencal herbs. These aromas translate to the wine, which has a very soft entrance, and then builds some structure as the tannins kick in. It’s elegant with a grip! More Southern Rhone in style than many Grenache bottlings from California, this complex wine can be enjoyed with a meal that features a little sweetness and tang, or appetizers featuring cured meats like Prosciutto or Serrano, sundried tomatoes, and some Fontina or other floral cheese. 50 cases produced. Drinking window 2019 – 2027. $35
2017 Sierra Foothills Mourvèdre
Mourvèdre is a very popular grape in southern Rhone, Provence, and northern Spain. It is also a varietal that has been in California for well over a century. The Rose’ produced from Mourvèdre is awesome with a lot of peach and watermelon. But, the red version is typically rustic with leather, hints of barnyard, a little road tar, with abundant black fruits, licorice and other accompanying aromas and flavors. These are incredibly well-structured wines and pair positively with both pastured-raised meats and wild game. Our 2017 comes from the family-owned Tanner Vineyard in Calaveras County. The wine features black cherry compote, leather and barnyard aromas, but with a hint of licorice that weaves in and out of the glass. The flavors are rustic and add some baking spice, jammy fruit, and dried Provencal herbs. The wine is soft with tannin coming forward at the mid palate providing the structure I seek in our wines. Our Mourvèdre will continue to develop well for the next 8-10 years. 50 cases produced. Drinking window 2018 – 2026. $35
2017 'E' Sonoma Valley Old Vine Zinfandel
California, like a good many top producing wine regions in the world, has an aging treasure in many of the major wine producing counties. These are the vineyards that were planted over 80 years ago, many approaching 140 years of age. Mostly field blends with a major varietal being featured, the mix of these varietals provide wonderfully balanced and complex wines. Our 2017 OVZin comes from 80+ year old vines planted close to the Sonoma Square. I also augmented this vintage with 20% from the 138 year old Bedrock Vineyard. Besides Zinfandel, these vineyards contain various percentages of Carignan, Alicante Bouschet, Petite Sirah, Black Muscat and others. The aromas leap from glass featuring plum skin, bitter chocolate, black berry and cherry compote, and a hint of black pepper. All these roll right into the flavors with the moderate to full bodied wine. As it is still young, I was struck by the even more powerful aromas on the second night. This portends a very good future of this wine that should age well for 10 years.
245 cases produced. Drinking window 2018 – 2027. $25
V.1 Enkidu ‘Portly’ Petite Sirah
Following the discussion above of our Port-style wine, I offer the following description of the first impressions of the V.1 bottling. The aromas and flavors show heaps of blackberry liqueur, raisins, black pepper and dried sage. The texture is intense, rich and unctuous with tannin providing the support to balance off the moderate sweetness. Extremely pleasing now, but will continue to improve for years to come…maybe up to 30+. Enjoy this hedonistic beauty, especially on those cold and wet evenings.
45 cases produced. Drinking window 2019 – 2040. $35